On my walks I often encounter jays. They pop up left and right, strutting about, flitting in and out, curious, loud and full of themselves. Not quite peacocks, but almost. Vain.

So it was last week. Thoughts turned to vanity displayed in other species, Homo sapiens among them, regardless of gender. That in turn, reminded me of a recent article that had me amused, discussing Egregious Renaissance maleness, from the inside out. (His title, not my words, alas…)

Voilà, the history of the codpiece. A fashion accessory that came into being as a functional piece of triangular cloth tied to your waist on one end and affixed to your long stockings on the other, trying to keep it all together and covered in case your upper garments slid up or apart, revealing the family jewels. Cloth eventually became pouch stuffed with something or other. The article was funny, but restricted to the 50 years or so in which the fashion item was en vogue, as documented in numerous Renaissance paintings, before it pretty much disappeared again. As fashion is want to do.

Portrait of Antonio Navagero (1565) with an accentuated codpiece, oil on canvas by Giovanni Battista Moroni, 

The short clip below draws a longer arc, from the 1500s to the fashion choices of various Star War characters, Heavy Metal Bands and fashion idols of the Gay community in contemporary design. It has an impressive collection of art on display, devoted to the fashion pride of the subjects….worth watching for that alone.

It, too, is funny – I wonder if witty people are drawn to strange subjects, or if that kind of revealing item brings out the wit – but I digress.

And here is an NYT interview with one of the people who still produce codpieces…

The most interesting thing about the codpiece is that form signaled but also contained function. It was not just a signal, announcing status, prowess, (lots of them attached to body armors claiming military might) gendered power, however you want to call it, but had a medical function as well. It turns out that syphilis was treated during those years with bandages holding an application of a messy mix of mercury and lard ointment, which could be safely contained in these bulging contraptions. Your clothes were protected from stains, bandages were demurely hidden. Or deceptively.

The demise of the codpiece was eventually brought about, among other factors, by prominent literary voices, Shakespeare’s among them. Ridiculing its attempt to signal masculinity was perfectly captured in 1628 by Robert Hayman.

Two Filthy Fashions

Of all fond fashion, that were worne by Men.
These two (I hope) will ne’r be worne againe:
Great Codpist Doublets, and great Codpist britch,
At seuerall times worne both by meane and rich:
These two had beene, had they beene worn together,
Like two Fooles, pointing, mocking each the other.

A more in-depth exploration of the way gendered fashions of all kinds have been elevated or struck down by cultural voices can be found here (assuming you have currently time for unanticipated but interesting reading….) – codpiece included.

And for music we have a nice compilation of Renaissance tunes, although that picture looks suspiciously like an ouud and not a mandolin…