Vienna was recently ranked, for the umpteenth time, the most livable city in the world. One of the ranking factors concerns the quality of the urban environment, actively pursued by a city government that understand the advantages of cutting-edge urban planning. Vienna’s administration has made conscious political decisions to open the public sphere to urban artists, granting rights to paint public property and offering permits for large building walls to national and international artists. The city welcomes intercultural exchange and public discussion of urban art and as a result the city benefits from graffiti that is art rather than pure tagging.

It is no coincidence, then, that the largest European street art festival takes place in Vienna, organized for 5 years now by a group of artists under the name of Calle Libre.  They attract major talent

https://www.callelibre.at/artists/

and the festival has grown to include sponsors and cooperation from the most important museums and political and cultural organizations in town, among them the Museum of Modern Art (MUMOK), Museum Quartier, and Frameout Film Festival.

https://www.callelibre.at/partners/

In Calle Libre’s own words, “Our goal is that of showing a different side of street art, aside from the “writings” or “bombings” often identified as vandalism by the wider public. Through our festival we can inform a wider audience on the nature, proportion and potential of street art as a form of art.”  I believe their approach is effective in removing the stigma still attached to so much of urban art.

The programming this year included, next to the live paintings across a week at various sites, workshops, concerts, film and dance performances. A panel discussion about the role of urban art as gentrifier or enhancer saw high powered speakers from the academic world, art critics, curators from the Albertina Museum and political figures. I missed that one.

I was, however, at the spot where a guided tour was scheduled to take us around to reveal not so obvious new works in various districts. Alas, no guide appeared. Admittedly, they had warned it would be canceled if it was too hot, and hot it was.

Luckily, I had explored on my own, and marveled at the work in progress devoted to artists who died 100 years ago and saw major celebration across Vienna’s museums this summer: Gustav Klimt and Egon Schiele. Photographs of the unfinished works are mine, the finished ones gleaned on the net.

Brazilian artist KOBRA riffed on an old photo of Klimt and his cat;

Portuguese artist Kruella d’Enfer (remind me of that name when I am next looking for a pseudonym) paid homage to both Klimt and Schiele,

 

as did Zesar Bahamonte from Spain.

This last one is located in the second district’s orthodox Jewish neighborhood. One wonders about the reaction to the lack of clothes….

Here is a link to a piece that gives you a bit of background about the festival.

https://www.tedxvienna.at/blog/calle-libre-urban-aesthetics-in-vienna/

The city becomes, of course, more and more colorful with these large surfaces adorned by major graffiti artists; the art draws a particular section of tourists as well, helping the economy. I was most taken by the spontaneous output though, outside of these organized extravaganzas. You can discover real creativity and fantasy and wit on a daily basis by so many unknown sprayers who come and go, not having to fear retribution.

Here are some of my favorite examples, in no particular order.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

You find them at play grounds, along the Donau canal, in the alleys of the city or hidden courtyards.  Creativity surrounds you.

As do reminders that you’ll never get the inside jokes.