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Uncommon Sightings

The entry stamp on my hand should have already given it away: it came in the form of a small red dachshund. It took me a while, though, during this first visit ever to a Portland Oktoberfest (or any Oktoberfest for that matter) to figure out that they had actual Wiener races as one of the main attractions of the whole event.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Wieners wherever you looked.  Although it was hard to focus on those elongated creatures given the many distractions in your line of sight.  The dirndls, the lederhosen, the hats.

 

 

 

 

Just in case you didn’t come adequately attired you could also spend hundreds of dollars to spiff up right then and there.

 

Then again, most people seemed to be inclined to spend the same amount of money on beer.  Which is, after all, what Oktoberfests are famous for.

 

 

 

It all started in Munich in 1810 as a celebration of one or another of the Ludwigs’ wedding. And seemingly hasn’t stopped since.  Citizens were invited to the meadows outside of the city to toast their crown prince or whatever he was and beer ran freely. Soon they added horse races to the annual event, then fun parks, the works. I looked at the official website for this year and counted 14 large beer tents or halls, and many more small ones. The festivities see an average 7 million visitors each year, with an estimated 6.9 million liters beer served. Hard to match in PDX, although we try.

Munich above, PDX below.

https://www.muenchen.de/int/en/events/oktoberfest/history.html

Somehow the Oktoberfest conquered the world. Even Hamburg, where reserved Northern Germans often wrinkled their noses at the thought of Bavarian debauchery, now celebrates the occasion with a slogan “Feiern wie die Bayern” – partying like the Bavarians.

(Can’t help but link to my favorite mention of beer, ever, in Willow: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r5XOYhG6Kgs)

And this year the Munich Oktoberfest is also the grounds for a psychological science experiment: so-called super recognizers, police personell that has unusual powers of observation, will be placed at the entrances of the Wiesn and in the large beerhalls to see if they can spot certain pre-defined perps. The story of the super recognizers is a fascinating one, they can correctly identify faces even when disguised, aged, altered within many contexts. In Munich they selected 37 out of 5300 applicants for the study for further evaluation. More on that during a blog week on psychology, but here is a link that gives an overview.

https://www.associationofsuperrecognisers.org/associate-news/munich-police-recruiting-srs

Well, in Portland, we rather race Wieners.

And my first encounter with this riveting activity consisted of a quartet of Dackeln three of whom hung out at the starting line after the race was on, confused and wonderingly looking at each other, then wobbling in circles, while the fourth one shot the 300 yards to the finish line in anticipation of a tasty snack that mom waved in the air.

 

I think it was the only minute during this last week of Kavanaugh horror show that I actually remembered how to laugh.

 

Castelleto Miramare

His last words were, “I forgive everyone, and I ask everyone to forgive me.” Know who I am talking about? Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian, who declared himself Emperor of Mexico when arriving with his Austrian fleet, uttered these words some years later in front of the firing squad that meant to send a signal to powers contemplating further foreign occupation.  That was after he gave his executioners a sack of gold to bribe them not to shoot him in the head – to no avail; either they felt he deserved it or they were bad at aiming their rifles.

All this came into my head yesterday during a spell of truly foul mood induced by the Kavanaugh hearings. The unbridled arrogance of knowing you can get away with lies, of knowing the boys club will support you on and off the court, just to ensure a regimen that preserves privileges and visions of a society that prohibits equality and justice for the gain of the White male few, riled me.  It generated dreams of historical events where power found its master, however temporarily.

A visit to a museum that is housed in what used to be Maximilian’s Austrian castle reveals the obscene riches that accompanies the kind of hubris associated with the Austro-Hungarian emperors. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Miramare_Castle 

Empress Sissi used to visit, as did many others of the clan, enjoying the scenery, the swimming and, one assumes, the freedom of court etiquette during these holidays. Apparently she was into heavy workouts and even had rings and a barre installed to do her exercises when the weather didn’t allow jogging outside. That was before the three hours daily spent on her hair. Now, where did I read that? Why does my brain even retain these annoying tidbits? Whatever.

A gaudy dwelling Trump would certainly enjoy as his own, given the ratio of gold to everything else. He and his brethren should be told of the fate of those who inhabited it, however, from the aristocrats who were executed, whose wives became certifiably insane, who died in wars, or were persecuted for war crimes (like the Nazi Gauleiter Friedrich Rainer who had aquisitioned the castle and was sentenced to death by hanging after the war, by a Yugoslav court in 1947.) The castle saw occupation by the Brits and later the Americans until it was dedicated as a museum in the 1950s.

 

 

I have little patience when I visit these kinds of historic museums, always thinking about how that accumulation of luxury was achieved on the backs of the less fortunate.  Then again, there is often beauty to be observed, whether in the architecture, or the garden design, or the craftsmanship that went into the furniture and trimmings. And secret doors, leading directly from the conjugal bed to the chapel…. I guess the prayers went unheard.

 

 

 

Today, all I could think was that occasionally justice reaches even into these folds of power.  May that be not just a historical occurrence – the pest on all of our current enablers!!!! And on all around the globe who serve injustice.

 

Touretteshero, or heroine, in my book.

Photographs here and below are of Jess Thom (Touretteshero)

Consider Terry Castle, the Walter A. Haas Professor in the Humanities at Stanford who has widely published on female homosexuality and 18th-century English literature. Many smart people judge her as one of the sharpest, most insightful, wittiest literary critics alive. She has also been involved, for all I can tell, in an extended cat fight with Susan Sontag, who she simultaneously reveres and competes with, even after the latter’s death.

In her essay Desperately seeking Susan she describes this scene: Having been promised a “real NY evening” in a loft with dinner guests like Laurie Anderson and Lou Reed she finds herself at the margins. “Yet it wouldn’t be quite right merely to say that everyone ignored me. As a non-artist and non-celebrity, I was so ‘not there,’ it seemed—so cognitively unassimilable—I wasn’t even registered enough to be ignored. I sat at one end of the table like a piece of antimatter.” Sontag’s brief attempt to introduce me —“with the soul-destroying words, Terry is an English professor”—only made things worse: “I might as well not have been born.” Just after coffee, with Sontag oblivious and sleepy in her chair, …. exit “back to the world of the Little People.”

Clearly she is no stranger to the concept and experience of exclusion; the way she describes her awakening to and living the life of a lesbian for decades also implies a knowledge of what it means to navigate non-mainstream terrains.

Imagine then how I almost choked when I read these words in one of her lauded essays in the London Review of Books on outsider art:

https://www.lrb.co.uk/v33/n15/terry-castle/do-i-like-it

Lunatics. Appalling. Whacked out. Disconcerting. Disorienting. Repelling. Crazy. Nothing but judgmental, violent, denigrating terms written in 2011.

Words matter. I remember drumming into my graduate students in a clinical program the necessity to shift language from the disorder to the person. The condition is NOT the person. No talking about a schizophrenic, but someone who has schizophrenia (and not suffers from it necessarily either, as so many project.) That was hard even for those who would never dream of uttering abasing terms like the ones mentioned above.

I ask myself how can we ever become a more inclusive society, combating stereotyping, ableism, all these deeply ingrained negative associations about people who have a neurological, mental or physical make-up that does not conform to the norms society proscribes?  When even the educated upper 1% cling to their ignorance, per chance even getting a kick out of their perceived superiority? And occasionally collect outsider art which makes the collectors, per definition, insiders? What does it mean to have to move amongst the prejudiced on a daily basis, if you are neuro-diverse? Or not move, as the case may be, since wheelchair accessibility is still such an issue in the world at large? Or you are deprived of your freedom to move in the confining net of rules of foster care?

I am bringing this up because I had the privilege – and pleasure – to photograph artists and their performances (presented by Boom Arts) who are exactly the kind of people Castle seems to shun. I saw brilliant stand-up comedy by British Jess Thom, Touretteshero, who uses the platform of her non-stop – laughter-inducing monologues to educate about the neurological disorder. Thom uses a wheelchair, dons protective gear for uncontrollable tics that might make her hurt herself and belongs to the few % of those who have Tourettes whose uncontrollable utterances often contain 4 letter words.

She is brutally honest in describing the effects of the disorder, and in her humorous and wickedly smart way of showing how a life need not be constrained by disability (defined within a social model where society is inducing this state rather than the neurological diversity per se: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Social_model_of_disability)

she is about the most successful educator and role model one could imagine.

http://touretteshero.com

Her eyes were steel grey in the stage light, luminous, expressive and for me representative of her steely determination to bring the issues into public consciousness.

Then there is the Wobbly Dance project, based in Portland, that a few years back made an experimental film Waking the green Sound about dancing while physically constrained to what movements a given body allows.

Yulia Arakelyan

Erik Ferguson

Grant Miller

A stirring piece of art, which has you see the magic of creativity and the physical beauty of the artists, Yulia Arakelyan, Erik Ferguson and Grant Miller (the latter of the daring fashion sense and the angelic face that recedes into the background when you hear them speak in measured, eloquent, non-shaming and yet devastating words on what prejudice does to the lives of the neuro-diverse.

https://www.wobblydance.com/film/

 

 

Then there is Cheryl Green’s tender and incisive portrayal of some members of the Wobblies, and their fears of being institutionalized, robbed of the simplest freedoms the rest of us don’t even give a second thought.

https://vimeo.com/232894045

The film maker acquired a brain injury some years ago and has since devoted her talents to documenting a community that needs to be known and understood beyond the ignorance at best and  prejudicial thinking at worst that is so commonly displayed in all of us.

And finally there is Lara Klingeman, part of the Echo Theater Community, who is often surrounded and at times assaulted by voices in her head and is anchored by the constant presence of a support animal. She created a soundscape of many overlapping voices telling her what (not) to do, think, feel, interspersed with sounds from the radio or street life, an ebbing and flowing cacophony at times unbearably loud, that is generated by a brain wired differently from our own. Connect to her and Levi, the dog, while this is played to the audience, giving us a glimpse of neuro-diversity that we can actually there and then experience ourselves.

Words matter. Actions can have an even more devastating impact. Did you know that the fundmental right to vote can be removed in 39 US states from neurodiverse citizens under Incompetency Laws?http://www.pewtrusts.org/en/research-and-analysis/blogs/stateline/2018/03/21/thousands-lose-right-to-vote-under-incompetence-laws

You can be stripped of your rights, being forced into institutions, and, in the case of the 1930s fascistic regime of my own country, Germany, being imprisoned and killed. In fact, Operation T4, the forced sterilization and later starving, injecting or gassing people with disabilities to death, was the earliest planned action to “cleanse the Aryan race”, long before Jews became the focus of annihilation. In all a quarter million people with mental or physical differences were systemically murdered between 1939 and 1945.

https://www.ushmm.org/learn/students/learning-materials-and-resources/mentally-and-physically-handicapped-victims-of-the-nazi-era/euthanasia-killings

In the bit I cited on top, Castle proudly proclaimed that hers’ were not Wordsworthian encounters with people with disabilities. Indeed they weren’t, if you understand his poetry as embracing encounters with disability as a tool that can promote moral growth for the rest of us through reflection.

I think we should all have a dinner party, every one of the photographed performers, the ever-moving ASL translators and folks from Echo Theater joining

the rest of us in celebration of diversity – and the likes of Terry Castle do not just have to sit at the end of the table  –  I’ll refuse to invite them altogether.

Producer Ruth Wikler-Luker will point the way (which she has done this season in more than one way,)

and Levi has to come as well!

 Jess can bring the flowers. As can Grant. They make our world whole.

 

Fleeting irritation. Lasting joy.

The essay (linked below) appeared on Sunday in Oregon ArtsWatch. Longish piece, but I had to tackle one of my pet peeves:

Botanical gardens (joy) across the world are invaded by sculpture shows (irritation.)

Art among the plants: a lament

http://www.orartswatch.org/art-among-the-plants-a-lament/

 

 

Photographs today are botanical garden cacti, deliciously prickly to match the sentiment. And a shoutout to all the beloved German grandparents who raised them on their window sills….

 

 

 

and here is today’s poem:

On A Fieldtrip To The Botanical Gardens, Kenya Gets A Lesson (Not In The Lesson Plan)

 

Deutscher Film

This week’s blog will focus on all things German. Well, some things German. The choice was prompted by an upcoming exciting and a recent depressing event. Exciting things first: Zeitgeist Northwest is presenting its German Film Festival at Cinema 21 starting October 6th.  (Depressing news are, of course, the results of the German election, which will be discussed tomorrow.)

The Portland German Film Festival is in its 8th year, and offering once again challenging and amusing fare. Our organization is lucky to have a movie whiz, Yvonne Behrens, who has the knowledge and connections to get some cutting edge films to Portland; she also does the work of 10 people single handedly, with an energy and commitment that is mind-boggling. Films will be shown at Cinema 21 in German with English subtitles. For detailed info look here:

http://portlandgermanfilmfestival.com

The very first day, this Friday, has some ápropos selections:  During the day PPGF will show Hitler’s Hollywood – German Cinema during the age of propaganda 1933-1945 with subsequent panel discussion. Here is the trailer: https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=3&v=mTkzrifyrFk  

“We ask what the Nazi cinema of the Third Reich reveals about its period and its people? How do these films, including their myths, their stories, their open lies and hidden truths, affect the future of the history of German cinema?
The Nazi-cinema was a state-controlled industry, subject to rigid political and cultural censorship. At the same time, it aspired to be “Great Cinema”; it viewed itself as an ideological and aesthetic alternative to Hollywood. A German dream factory. This state-funded studio-based cinema followed industrial modes of production.”  

Given the rise of right-wing, populist nationalism in Germany it seems ever more important to look back at the history of how these movements came to power, including their use of media. Certainly the current scourge of neo-nazi revival knows about that – with the help of no other than Harris Media, a Texas-based PR firm used by Trump, Ted Cruz, Sarah Palin and Benjamin Netanyahu. Check out this video they made about an “islamic” Germany… and of course the American Mercers, prime supporters of Steve Bannon’s movement and the Breitbart empire, have their moneygrubbing and -dispensing hands in media influence over another country’s election as well….

.http://www.dw.com/en/dwnews-afd-joins-forces-with-trumps-former-pr-team/av-40316399

https://theintercept.com/2017/09/22/german-election-afd-gatestone-institute/

Friday night you’ll be able to see a bittersweet comedy about refugee integration with a stellar cast. Consul General of the Federal Republic of Germany Hans-Ulrich Südbeck will give the opening remarks before the screening of Welcome to Germany – Willkommen bei den Hartmanns. http://portlandgermanfilmfestival.com/film/welcome-to-germany-willkommen-bei-den-hartmanns/

Films will not all be political, though. For those of us interested in art I recommend a period drama about Egon Schiele. http://portlandgermanfilmfestival.com/film/egon-schiele-death-and-the-maiden-egon-schiele-tod-und-madchen/

Then there is religion: the premiere of a film about Martin Luther for the 500th anniversary of the protestant revolution. http://portlandgermanfilmfestival.com/film/reformation-himmel-und-holle-this-is-a-free-event-500th-anniversary-of-the-protestant-reformation/

Really, there is something for everything in-between – just check out the website!

 

Oh, and heartthrob Moritz Bleibtreu will receive the Portland German Film Festival Award 2017. Find your favorite seat and see me at the movies.

 

 

 

The truly weird

When night descended on my father’s brain in the year before his death, it was filled with vivid hallucinations. Among them were wild rides around the Brocken, the highest point of a small mountainous areas in Germany, called the Harz. The area was known for numerous myths, associated with witches, and immortalized in Goethe’s Faust, Walpurgisnacht. Goethe himself was quite interested in the occult and there is still a Goethe Weg at the Brocken, Goethe’s Path, commemorating where he walked and explored. Clearly, part of the canon of German literature, something each German child was exposed to, made such a vivid impression on my dad that it recurred, 60 years later, with the force of hellish nightmares, now indistinguishable from reality.

The Brocken was also site of an experiment between science and the occult, around the time my father was 10 years old, in 1932. In honor of  the centennial of Goethe’s death a skeptic was invited to try his hand at magic: turning a goat into a little boy. As the linked article aptly states: “Spoiler alert – science won.” The fascinating – and ludicrous –  details can be read below.

http://www.atlasobscura.com/articles/the-brocken-experiment-failed-to-change-a-goat-into-a-boy?utm_source=Atlas+Obscura+Daily+Newsletter&utm_campaign=eae8ac97a1-EMAIL_CAMPAIGN_2017_05_11&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_f36db9c480-eae8ac97a1-66214597&ct=t(Newsletter_5_11_2017)&mc_cid=eae8ac97a1&mc_eid=1765533648

How weird ist that? We are talking the year when Heisenberg receives the Nobel prize in Physics, Neumann establishes the foundation for quantum mechanics, Thorndike finds experimental evidence for the theory of special relativity, Anderson observes a positron, ascorbic acid is discovered to fight scorbutic disease, the first sulfonamide drug is patented, shall I go on? And the population, including attending press, believes magic done right can create a boy from a goat?

The world is a strange place; alas, not much has changed. Except it seems like the magical thinkers are winning in a republican-shaped world.

http://www.salon.com/2014/12/20/7_things_americans_think_are_more_plausible_than_global_warming_partner/

With that said – a happy mother’s day to those who are and a happy day to those who aren’t  – with hopes for  a shared sentiment:

 

St. Patrick’s Day

Yesterday afternoon the entire cityscape of Seattle seemed to be taking on a greenish hue in anticipation of St. Patrick’s Day.

I decided to pick up green as a theme of my afternoon walk, which brought me along the waterfront, the ferry terminals and to the shipyards where they repair boats.

 

Along the way there were glimpse of green everywhere.

The Guardian helped with a musical selectionhttp://www.telegraph.co.uk/music/what-to-listen-to/st-patricks-day-12-best-irish-songs-time/

I chose this one, had a hard time choosing, though……

Elphi

Alfie? Why is everyone talking about Alfie, I wondered. It turns out I misheard. The topic of the day is Elphi, short for Elbphilharmonie, the concert house overlooking Hamburg Harbour. The building has been everything from hyped architectural marvel to fiscal bone of contention for the last 15 years. Planning started in 2001, construction in 2007, legal wrangling over cost and timing begins in 2010, in 2013 we learn that the ultimate cost will be 866 million Euros (that includes donations) – 1o times as much as originally budgeted. Late 2016 the first rehearsals in the cutting edge concert hall lead to applause for the director of acoustics – he’s been a magician.

It will be opened TOMORROW! With a mega light show, real-time TV transmissions and much fanfare when the Haute Volée appears on the carpets.  Concerts are booked out for the year(s) to come, as is the hotel located on one of the upper floors. A Westin that provides you for the pocket change of $3.500 per night with the best of the best, including harbor view. (Truth be told the range is more from the 300 to three thousand, and yes, you read that number right the first time.)

We mere mortals, however, can take the curved escalator to various levels where you can walk around the building, see Hamburg from 4 sides, and enjoy the reflections in the various surface structures that give the building some fluidity.  That is if you don’t fall over people restlessly emptying cartons of tchotchkes that are sold in the tourist trap store,

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

or the cables that are haphazardly strewn about for the millions of halogen lamps for the opening light show.

 

 

Lightshow equipment surrounds it

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

NOT recommended for people with fear of heights…..

much recommended for people interested in architectural gimmicks.

Escalator is curved; internal walls covered with a white plastic foil 

 

Actually, this quote from the Financial Times sums it up in a more generous fashion: Sophisticated and ugly, striking yet appropriate, brutal but open, it is a generous gesture and a magnificent paradox.

https://www.ft.com/content/9e14e66c-b313-11e6-9c37-5787335499a0

NYC

Gertrude Vanderbilt Whitney was a woman who defied expectation. Founder of the Whitney Museum she was a progressive and unflappable patron of the modern arts. Her husband, on the other hand, did not permit her portrait (painted by Robert Henri) to be hung in their house; he probably couldn’t stand all that assertiveness. Or a woman wearing the pants….

The new building of the Whitney is functional and delightfully unpretentious. Which can not necessarily be said for the museum visitors who seem to be inclined towards color coordination with the exhibits.

Two things caught my eye in particular. I had mentioned this piece before, turned upside down per request of the artist the day after Trump was elected. Not a peep about that in any vicinity of the artwork. People are left in the dark, probably to dark-adapt for the upcoming years…..

And then there is this wax sculpture of Julian Schnabel created by Swiss artist Urs Fischer. It has been burning as a candle since April, having been an intact image of the man at the beginning. I guess heads roll first – that, too, an ominous prep for our future. The poor guard’s job is to light the candle in the morning, extinguish in the evening at stand near a portable fire extinguisher for the rest of the day. Now do you feel better about what’s in store for you today?

Like mother like son, we documented our favorite sights, as well as the unconscionable tasteless ones.

 

The museum store offered the upscale advice of what I had found on the street earlier.

Not exactly the advice that hungry waifs or sumo babies could use – but one taken seriously by yours truly.

An Exercise in Strength

“Just see your servant’s suffering and misery. Just see his soul, a vulture in a trap.”

 

This self- description by Ibn Gabriel, one of the ancestors of Hebrew poetry, fits not just himself but really all the disenfranchised people I can think of. Just see your neighbor’s suffering and misery, your refugee’s, your homeless person’s. They might not appeal to a higher power, as Ibn Gabriel did, for enlightenment. They might just long for safety, a place to be, a meal to share to escape their cage. The Jewish poet, by the way, living a short and arduous life, with anger issues and a love for the grotesque, derived his quest for knowledge and philosophy from the Arab world that he lived in.

 “The large-scale absorption of cosmopolitan ideas and intellectual pursuits by Jewish intellectuals and religious leaders was one of the developments in Jewish culture that was made possible by the spread of Islam throughout the Mediterranean world. By the mid-tenth century, most of world Jewry lived in Islamic domains and spoke Arabic as their native language. Through Arabic, Jews had access to the high culture of the age, including, on the one hand, the metaphysics, medicine, astronomy, logic, and mathematics inherited from the Greeks.”

Or so I learn from an introduction to his works here: http://www.tabletmag.com/jewish-arts-and-culture/219518/vulture-in-a-cage?utm_source=tabletmagazinelist&utm_campaign=db7edbd121-EMAIL_CAMPAIGN_2017_01_01&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_c308bf8edb-db7edbd121-207667521

Vulture in a Cage

I strongly believe that art sets that vulture free from his cage, and never more so when done in solidarity and with a shared mission. Below is the perfect example. Why the title talks about vulnerability is a mystery to me. All I learned from that short clip was about the strength of a community whose soul did soar.

https://www.theatlantic.com/video/index/511085/when-art-becomes-an-exercise-in-vulnerability/

(Photographs from the Austin Tx Kite Festival)